Unravelling the mystery of Baikal’s largest island
Published 03 July, 2008, 02:24
Baikal, the world's largest and oldest lake, was recently voted one of Russia’s seven wonders. It lies in Southern Siberia, between the Irkutsk region and the Republic of Buryatia. Known as the ‘Blue eye of Siberia’, Baikal contains more water than all the North American Great Lakes put together. The Island of Olkhon is the largest on Lake Baikal.
If Baikal is often called the ‘Pearl of Siberia’, Olkhon is said to be the ‘Pearl of Baikal’. It is a land of thick forests, sandy hills and vast steppes.
Vyacheslav Nenov is a horse breeder on the island of Olkhon at the heart of Baikal. His life on an isolated farm is about blue sky, green grass and his horses.
He says: “Sometimes it gets lonely here. But horses have become a part of me now. I’ve fallen off so many times, sometimes they bite too. This is my everyday life.”
Olkhon’s been home to ethnic Buryats for centuries. Most still live off the land, breed cattle and fish. Every evening local villagers place their nets and in the morning the catch is always good.
“We always have enough here,” they say.
Olkhon is also a place of ancient Buryat traditions respected by locals and travellers alike.
Eric Butakov, an economist turned adventurer, has crisscrossed Baikal’s shores and learnt its customs well. To make sure the spirits here help you, you have to leave something for them at a special pillar in places thought to have supernatural powers. Ribbons, pieces of jewellery or coins – anything goes.
“Every traveller who comes here asks the spirits to make their journey easier, give them strength or fulfill their dearest wishes,” Eric explains.
And scores of travellers are coming. Virtually undiscovered by tourists until some 20 years ago, Olkhon is quickly becoming a magnet for nature-lovers and thrill-seekers.
But those used to five-star pampering may be in for a surprise. The island’s infrastructure has yet to catch up with the growing demand.
Accommodation on the island is very basic so you can forget about a TV or even running water. For most people, a tent is the only option. But for those who come here, it’s exactly what they’re looking for.
Antony Badura and his friends have come all the way from Poland. For them, the long journey and lack of comfort are a part of the fun.
He says: “It’s true that this is a very far-flung place. But if you want to see something great in your life and to experience something special, you have to dare it”.
A journey to Baikal can be a unique trip of a lifetime. And the locals say, once you’ve seen it, you’ll be coming back again and again.
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